Troubleshooting

This Section provides a simple procedure for determining the causes of faults and failures that occur in the components and systems of the vehicle. Faults and their possible causes are grouped by the specific component or system of the vehicle to which they relate, such as the engine, cooling system, etc. In addition, the text refers to the Chapters and Sections that relate to these problems.

Remember that successful troubleshooting is not black magic available only to experienced professional technicians. It depends on a combination of knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to the problem. Always proceed from the simple to the complex, complete each check, and do not overlook the obvious. Anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave the lights on overnight.

Finally, always try to form a clear picture of how the fault developed and take the appropriate steps to prevent it from recurring. If an electrical failure was caused by a poor contact, check the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors in the system as well. If the same fuse continues to blow repeatedly, there is no point in replacing it again. Determine the cause of the failure. Remember that the failure of a secondary component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important component or of an entire system.

Engine

To start a gasoline engine, the following conditions must be met: the fuel mixture must reach the cylinders, and the spark plugs must generate a spark. Therefore, first check that fuel is being delivered. For the checking procedure, refer to the Sections of the Fuel and Exhaust Systems Chapter.

To check for ignition spark, remove the spark plugs, connect them to the plug connectors, and ground them one at a time. Do not hold the connector or the cable with your hands. Use an insulated cable for this purpose. Have an assistant crank the engine.

* To avoid damaging the catalytic converter, fuel injection must be disabled. To do this, disconnect the fuel pump relay.

* Observe the safety precautions when working with the electronic ignition system.

On a diesel engine, check the fuel system and the glow plugs.

Engine does not crank when attempting to start

If the starter does not crank the engine, first check whether voltage is present at terminal 50 of the solenoid switch, which is required to engage the pinion with the ring gear. The voltage must be at least 10 V. If voltage is present, check the starter circuit wiring according to the wiring diagram.

Check the starter as follows:
- Do not engage a gear. Turn the ignition on.
- Connect terminals 30 and 50 at the starter with a wire (cross-section of at least 4 mm²). Refer to the wiring diagram.

If the starter operates, the fault is in the supply wiring. In this case, check the starter after removal.

INSPECTION

1. The battery terminals are corroded or the cable ends are loose. Check the condition of the terminals and cable ends. Tighten the terminal clamps and remove any corrosion as necessary.
2. The battery is discharged or faulty. If the cable ends are clean and securely attached to the battery terminals, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If this electrical equipment does not operate, the battery is discharged.
3. The transmission is not fully set in the "P" position (AT) or in neutral (MT), or the clutch is not fully depressed.
4. The starting circuit wiring is open or the wires are loose at the terminals. Check the condition of the wires, terminals and electrical connectors at the battery, starter solenoid switch and ignition switch.
5. The starter pinion is jammed in the flywheel ring gear. On models equipped with MT, select a gear and rock the vehicle by hand to turn the engine. As soon as possible, remove the starter and inspect the pinion and the flywheel ring gear.
6. The starter solenoid switch is faulty (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
7. The starter is faulty (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
8. The ignition switch is faulty.

Engine cranks but does not start

1. The fuel tank is empty.
2. The engine was started incorrectly.

Gasoline engine

Depress the clutch or set the AT selector lever to "P" or "N". Turn the ignition key to operate the starter without pressing the accelerator pedal. As soon as the engine starts, release the key. Do not operate the starter for more than 20 seconds. Begin driving immediately. Do not warm up the engine with the vehicle stationary. If the engine does not start after the first attempt, wait briefly to allow the spark plugs to dry. Then start the engine with the accelerator pedal half depressed. When the engine starts, release the pedal.

* Repeated unsuccessful attempts to start the engine can damage the catalytic converter, because unburned fuel enters the catalytic converter and burns explosively when heated.

Diesel engine

- Cold engine: Depress the clutch or set the AT selector lever to "P" or "N". Turn the ignition key until the indicator lamp goes out. Immediately after the indicator lamp goes out, start the engine without pressing the accelerator pedal. As soon as the engine starts, release the ignition key. At low ambient temperatures, operate the starter for up to 40 seconds. Begin driving immediately. Do not warm up the engine with the vehicle stationary.
- Warm engine: If the glow plug indicator lamp does not illuminate, do not preheat. The engine can be started immediately.

1. There is a malfunction in the fuel injection system (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
2. The battery is discharged (the engine cranks too slowly). Check the operation of the electrical equipment (refer to the previous Section).
3. The battery terminal connections are corroded or loose (refer to the previous Section).
4. The fuel pump is faulty (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
5. The ignition system components are damaged or excessively wet (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
6. The spark plugs are worn or faulty, or the spark plug gap is incorrect (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
7. The starting circuit wiring is open or disconnected, or the wires are loose at the terminals (refer to the previous Section).
8. The ignition coil circuit wiring is open or disconnected, or the wires are loose at the coil terminals (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).

Diesel engines

9. The diesel engine preheating system is not operating. Check the operation of the preheating system.
10. There is no voltage at the electromagnetic shut-off valve. Connect a voltmeter or an LED test lamp to the switch. Turn the ignition on. The LED should illuminate. If it does not, locate the open circuit in the wiring and repair it.
12. The electromagnetic shut-off valve is faulty. Check that the electromagnetic switch is securely attached and check the contacts. Turn the ignition on and off. A click should be heard from the switch.
13. There is damage in the fuel supply line or air in the lines:
- The lines or hoses are mechanically damaged or clogged. Clean the fuel lines and bleed the air from the lines and the filter.
- The fuel filter is clogged. Replace the filter element.
- In winter, check the filter and lines for ice or wax. Place the vehicle in a heated garage and add gasoline to the system.
- The tank vent or the fuel pickup strainer is clogged. Clean it.
14. The cold start control is not set to the starting position. Pull it out.
15. The fuel injection timing is incorrect. Check and adjust it.
16. The injectors are faulty. Check them. Loosen the union nuts one at a time. When the nut of a faulty cylinder is loosened, the engine speed will not drop.
17. The high-pressure fuel pump is faulty. Install a new or known good pump to check.

Starter operates but does not crank the engine

1. The starter pinion is jammed. Remove the starter (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment) and inspect it.
2. The teeth of the starter pinion or the flywheel ring gear are worn or damaged.

Difficult starting with cold engine

1. The battery is discharged or insufficiently charged.
2. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).

Diesel engines

3. Paraffin wax is present in the diesel fine fuel filter. Replace the filter element. Fill with winter fuel or dilute with gasoline.
4. The glow plugs are faulty.

Difficult starting with hot engine

1. The air filter is clogged (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
2. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. Fuel is not reaching the fuel injectors (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).

Diesel engines

4. The engine fuel injection timing is incorrect.
5. Cylinder compression is low, or the high-pressure fuel pump is faulty or out of adjustment.

Starter engagement is too noisy or difficult

1. The teeth of the starter pinion or the flywheel ring gear are worn or damaged.
2. The starter mounting bolts are missing or loose.

Engine starts but stalls immediately

1. The wiring is faulty or the wires are loose at the terminals of the coils or the generator.
2. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. There are vacuum leaks at the intake manifold or fuel injection unit gasket surfaces. Make sure the mounting bolts/nuts are tight, and check that all vacuum hoses are securely attached to their fittings on the intake manifold. Check the condition of the hoses and that they are connected to the correct fittings.

Unstable engine idle

1. There are vacuum leaks. Make sure the mounting bolts/nuts are tight, and check that all vacuum hoses are securely attached to their fittings on the intake manifold. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a length of fuel hose. A hissing sound will identify the source of the vacuum leak. A soapy water solution can also be used effectively for checking.
2. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. There is a loss of contact in the electrical wiring of the electric fuel pump.
4. The fuel filter is clogged.
5. The injector is faulty.
6. The positive crankcase ventilation valve is blocked (Chapter Engine).
7. The air filter is clogged (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
8. The fuel pump is not supplying sufficient fuel to the injectors (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
9. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Measure the cylinder compression pressure.
10. The camshaft lobes are worn (Chapter Engine).

Diesel engines

11. The fuel hose connections at the high-pressure fuel pump and the fuel filter are loose. Replace the fuel hoses, secure them with clamps, and tighten the banjo bolts.
12. The high-pressure fuel pump is mechanically damaged or loose. Check the mounting.
13. The return line and the fuel supply line connections are interchanged. Connect them correctly. The return line connection bolt is marked "OUT".
14. There is damage in the fuel supply line:
- The lines or hoses are mechanically damaged or clogged. Clean the fuel lines.
- The fuel filter is clogged. Replace the filter element.
- In winter, check the filter and lines for ice or wax. Place the vehicle in a heated garage and add gasoline to the system.
- The tank vent or the fuel pickup strainer is clogged. Clean it.
15. The fuel injection timing is incorrect. Check and adjust it.
16. The injectors are faulty. Check them. Loosen the union nuts one at a time. When the nut of a faulty cylinder is loosened, the engine speed will not drop.
17. The high-pressure fuel pump is faulty. Install a new or known good pump to check.

Engine misfires at idle

1. The spark plugs are worn or dirty, or the spark plug gap is incorrect (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
2. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. The spark plug wires are faulty (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
4. There are vacuum leaks at the intake manifold or hose connections.
5. Cylinder compression is insufficient or uneven. Measure the compression (Chapter Engine).

Engine misfires when driving in gear

1. The fuel filter is clogged or the fuel system is contaminated (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
2. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty, or the spark plug gap is incorrect (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
4. The spark plug wires are defective (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
5. The emission control system components are faulty.
6. Cylinder compression is insufficient or uneven. Remove the spark plugs and measure the compression pressure (Chapter Engine).
7. The ignition system is faulty (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
8. There are vacuum leaks at the throttle body, intake manifold or vacuum hoses.

Engine stalls

1. The idle speed is incorrectly adjusted.
2. The fuel filter is clogged and/or moisture or dirt has entered the fuel system (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
3. There is a failure of the fuel system components or sensors (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
4. The emission control system components are faulty.
5. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty, or the spark plug gap is incorrect (Chapter Routine Maintenance and Servicing). Also check the condition of the spark plug wires (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
6. There are vacuum leaks at the throttle body or vacuum hoses.

Engine lacks power

1. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
2. The air cleaner is clogged. Clean or replace it.
3. The spark plugs are faulty or the spark plug gap is incorrect (Chapter Routine Maintenance and Servicing).
4. The ignition coil is faulty (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
5. The AT fluid level is incorrect (Chapter Automatic Transmission).
6. The clutch is slipping (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts).
7. The fuel filter is clogged and/or dirt/moisture has entered the fuel system (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
8. Poor quality fuel was used.
9. Cylinder compression is insufficient or uneven. Measure the compression. Analysis of the results can indicate valve leakage and/or a leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter Engine).

Diesel engines

10. The high-pressure fuel pump delivers fuel unevenly to the cylinders. Adjust with the engine at operating temperature.
11. The high-pressure fuel pump delivery timing is incorrect. Adjust it.
12. The fuel filter or the high-pressure fuel pump (injector) is clogged. Clean the prefilter, replace the fine filter element, clean the nozzle or replace the pump (injector).
13. The maximum engine speed is incorrectly adjusted.
14. The high-pressure fuel pump is overheating. The throttle valve is clogged.

Backfiring in the intake system / popping in the exhaust system

1. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
2. There is a defect in the secondary ignition circuit (cracked spark plug insulators or defective spark plug wires) (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. The fuel injection system requires adjustment, or its components are excessively worn (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
4. There are vacuum leaks at the throttle body, intake manifold or vacuum hoses.
5. The valves are sticking (Chapter Engine).
6. The spark plug wires are connected in the wrong order (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).

Detonation (knocking) when accelerating or driving uphill

1. The wrong grade of fuel was used. Fill the tank with fuel of the required octane rating.
2. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. Spark plugs other than the recommended type are installed. Check the spark plugs and their wires for damage (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
4. There are vacuum leaks.

Pre-ignition (engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off)

1. The idle speed is excessively high (Chapter Engine).
2. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. The engine operating temperature is excessive. Possible causes include a low coolant level (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems), a thermostat failure, a blocked radiator or a faulty water pump (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).

Diesel engine smokes

1. Black smoke:
- The air cleaner is dirty. Wash it and refill with fresh oil, or replace the element.
- The wrong fuel was used. Flush the tank and replace the fuel.
- The high-pressure fuel pump delivery timing is incorrect.
- The injector check valve is not operating properly due to leakage. Check the injector on a test bench. If necessary, disassemble and lap the valve, or replace it.
2. Blue smoke:
- Oil is burning in the combustion chamber due to worn piston rings or a high oil level in the air cleaner. Overhaul the engine and set the oil to the correct level.
- Fuel is not being supplied to one of the injectors. Check by the temperature of the exhaust manifold pipes.
- Poor fuel atomization by the injector due to a faulty valve or a broken nozzle. Lap the valve or replace the injector.
3. White or brown smoke:
- The cooling system temperature is low. Check the thermostat.
- The injectors are operating poorly due to wear or a broken nozzle. Replace the nozzle.

Engine Electrical Equipment

Battery does not hold a charge

1. The generator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is incorrectly adjusted (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
2. The electrolyte level is insufficient, or the battery is heavily discharged (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. The battery terminals are corroded, or the cable ends are loose (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
4. The generator is not producing the required charging current (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
5. The charging circuit wiring is open or otherwise damaged, or the wires are loose at the terminals (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
6. A short circuit in the wiring causes a constant drain of battery current to ground (refer to Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment and the Wiring Diagrams).
7. There is an internal defect in the battery.

Charge indicator lamp does not go out

1. There is a malfunction of the charging circuit or the generator (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
2. The generator drive belt is damaged or worn, or its tension is incorrectly adjusted (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).

Charge indicator lamp does not illuminate when the ignition key is turned to the "ON" position

1. The indicator lamp in the instrument panel is burned out or otherwise faulty (Chapter Body Electrical Equipment).
2. The generator is faulty (Chapter Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, the wiring inside the instrument cluster or the bulb socket (Chapter Body Electrical Equipment).

Fuel System

Troubleshooting the injection system assumes there are no engine management faults. For both a cold and a warm engine, the following rule applies: do not press the accelerator pedal before and during engine starting. After starting a hot engine, it may be necessary to increase the throttle.

The fuel tank must contain fuel, the engine must be mechanically sound, the battery must be charged, the starter must turn at sufficient speed, the ignition system must be in good condition, the fuel system must be free of leaks and contamination, the crankcase ventilation must be in order, and the engine must have ground connections. Read out the fault memory data.

* If the fuel lines are opened, first clean them with a cleaner.

Excessive fuel consumption

1. The air filter element is dirty or clogged (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
2. There is a malfunction of the fuel system or electrical components (Chapters Fuel and Exhaust Systems and Engine Electrical Equipment).
3. The tire pressure is too low, or tires of the wrong size are installed.

Fuel leaks and/or fuel odor

1. There are leaks in the fuel supply lines or vent lines (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).
2. The fuel tank is overfilled. Fill only until the nozzle shuts off automatically.
3. There are evaporative leaks from the fuel system lines (Chapter Fuel and Exhaust Systems).

Cooling System

Overheating

1. There is insufficient coolant in the system (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
2. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is incorrectly adjusted (Chapter Engine).
3. The radiator cooling fan is not reaching the required speed. The bimetallic sensor of the viscous coupling is faulty. With the coolant temperature at +90 - 95 °C, start the engine and raise the speed to 4000 - 5000 rpm. The fan speed should increase noticeably. If it does not, check the fan clutch. If necessary, replace the bimetallic element.
4. The internal passages of the radiator are blocked, or the radiator grille is dirty (blocked) (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
5. The thermostat is faulty (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
6. The fan blades are broken or cracked (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
7. The radiator cap does not hold pressure. Pressure test the cap (consult a service station).

Overcooling

1. The thermostat is faulty (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
2. The temperature gauge readings are inaccurate.

External coolant leaks

1. The hoses are damaged or deteriorated with age, or they are loose on their fittings. Replace the hoses and/or tighten the hose clamps (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
2. The water pump seals are faulty. In this case, coolant will seep through the weep hole in the pump housing (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
3. There are leaks from the internal passages of the radiator or the side tank(s). Professional radiator repair is required (for the removal procedure, refer to Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
4. There are leaks at the engine drain plug (Chapter Engine) or the core plugs of the water jackets (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).

Internal coolant leaks

* Internal coolant leaks are usually detected by checking the condition of the engine oil. Inspect the dipstick and the inside surfaces of the cylinder head cover(s) for traces of water and oil foaming.

1. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Pressure test the cooling system.
2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the cylinder head casting. Disassemble the engine to check (Chapter Engine).

Coolant loss

1. Too much coolant was added to the system (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
2. Coolant is boiling away due to engine overheating.
3. There are internal or external coolant leaks.
4. The radiator cap is faulty. Pressure test the cap.

Poor coolant circulation

1. The water pump is not operating properly. The easiest way to check the pump is to pinch the upper radiator hose with the engine idling. If a surge of fluid is felt inside the hose when it is released, the pump is operating properly (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).
2. The cooling system is restricted. Drain the coolant, flush the system and refill it with fresh mixture (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems). If necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems) and reverse flush it.
3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is incorrectly adjusted (Chapter Engine).
4. The thermostat is stuck (Chapter Cooling and Heating Systems).

Clutch

Clutch does not disengage (the MT shift lever does not move freely into reverse and back with the clutch pedal fully depressed)

The clutch disc is bent or damaged (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts).

Clutch slips (engine speed increases without an increase in vehicle speed)

1. The clutch disc is contaminated with oil, or its friction linings are worn. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts) and inspect its components.
2. The clutch disc has not bedded in properly. Final bedding-in of a new disc may require 30 to 40 normal starts of the vehicle.
3. The pressure plate/clutch cover is worn (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts).

Severe vibration when the clutch is engaged

1. The clutch disc is oil-soaked. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts) and inspect its components. Eliminate all detected leaks.
2. The splines of the driven disc (clutch disc) hub are worn. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts) and inspect its components.
3. The pressure plate/clutch cover or the flywheel is bent. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts) and inspect its components and the flywheel.

Squealing or rumbling noise when the clutch is fully engaged (pedal released)

The clutch release bearing is seized. Remove the clutch (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts) and inspect the bearing. Remove all burrs and scoring, and lubricate the bearing before installation.

Squealing or rumbling noise when the clutch is fully disengaged (pedal depressed)

1. The release bearing is worn or damaged (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts).
2. The pressure plate springs (or diaphragm spring fingers) in the clutch cover are worn or damaged (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts).

Clutch pedal remains on the floor after being released

1. The linkage or the release bearing is seized. Check the condition of the linkage and, if necessary, remove the clutch components.
2. Make sure the correct type of pedal stop is installed.

Manual Transmission (MT)

Noise with the transmission in neutral and the engine running

1. The input shaft bearing is worn.
2. The output shaft pinion bearing is damaged.
3. The countershaft bearings are worn.
4. The countershaft end play adjustment shims are worn or damaged.

Noise in all transmission positions

1. Any of the above causes and/or:
2. The transmission fluid level is low (insufficient transmission oil).

Noise in one particular gear

1. The teeth of the gear for that gear are worn, damaged or chipped.
2. The synchronizer for that gear is worn or damaged.

Transmission jumps out of top gear

1. The transmission is loose on the clutch housing.
2. Dirt has entered between the transmission housing and the engine, or the transmission has shifted relative to the engine.

Difficult gear shifting

1. The clutch is not fully disengaged (released).
2. The shift linkage is damaged, loose or out of adjustment. Check the components thoroughly and replace any defective parts as necessary.

Transmission oil leaks

1. The transmission is overfilled with oil. Drain the excess as necessary.
2. The differential seals or the speedometer drive gear seal require replacement.

Automatic Transmission (AT)

* Due to the complexity of the AT design, complete diagnosis of its faults and repair of its components are beyond the skills of the average amateur mechanic. For any AT operating problems other than those listed below, take the vehicle to a service station or a BMW dealer for inspection and repair.

General shift mechanism problems

1. Failures related to an incorrect shift linkage adjustment include the following:
• The engine can be started in transmission positions other than "P" (Park) and "N" (Neutral).
• The transmission position indicator reading differs from the gear actually selected.
• The vehicle moves with the transmission set to the "P" position.
2. Have the shift linkage adjusted at a service station.

Transmission slips, shifts harshly, is noisy, or does not move the vehicle in a forward gear or in reverse

1. There are many possible causes of the problems listed in the heading. However, only one of them can be handled by an amateur mechanic: an incorrect transmission fluid level.
2. Before taking the vehicle to a service station, check the level and condition of the transmission fluid. Correct the level, or replace the fluid together with the filter. If the problem is not corrected, seek professional help.

Transmission fluid leaks

1. AT fluid is dark red. Do not confuse traces of AT fluid leaks with traces of engine oil, which can be blown onto the transmission housing by the airstream.
2. To find and locate the source of the leak, first remove all traces of dirt and grease from the transmission housing. Use a suitable degreaser and/or steam clean. Then make a short trip at low speed (so that the leak traces are not blown far from the source by the airstream). Stop, raise the vehicle and visually locate the source of the leak. The most common sources are:
- Transmission pan: Tighten the mounting bolts and/or replace the pan gasket.
- Fluid filler tube: Replace the rubber seal where the tube enters the transmission housing.
- Transmission fluid lines: Tighten the fittings or replace the lines.
- Vent tube: The transmission is overfilled and/or water has entered it.
- Speedometer connection: Replace the O-ring where the speedometer drive cable enters the transmission housing.

Axles

Noise

1. Normal road noise. It cannot be corrected.
2. Tire noise. Check the tread condition and the tire pressure.
3. The rear wheel bearings are worn or damaged, or are loose.

Vibration

Check the condition of the rear wheel bearings by raising each corner of the vehicle in turn and turning the wheel by hand. Listen for noise from the bearing. Remove the bearings and inspect them.

Oil leaks

The driveshaft seals are damaged (Chapter Clutch and Driveshafts).

Brake System

* Before reaching a final conclusion that there is a problem with the brake system, make sure the tires are in satisfactory condition and inflated to the required pressure, the front wheel alignment is correct, and the vehicle is not unevenly loaded.

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

1. The brake pads/shoes on one side of the vehicle are damaged or contaminated with oil. Check the condition of the pads/shoes (Chapter Brake System).
2. The friction material of the brake pad/shoe linings on one side of the vehicle is excessively worn (Chapter Brake System).
3. Suspension components are loose or disconnected. Check the condition of the component mountings and tighten the fasteners to the specified torque (Chapter Suspension and Steering).
4. The drum/caliper assembly of one of the brakes is faulty. Remove the drum or caliper and inspect it for signs of piston seizure and other damage (Chapter Brake System).
5. The slide pins of the floating caliper of the front disc brake are unevenly lubricated. Remove the caliper and lubricate the slide pins (Chapter Brake System).

Noise (high-pitched squeal) during braking

1. The disc brake pads are worn. Replace the pads immediately (on both sides) (Chapter Brake System). If the pad linings are completely worn, also check the condition of the brake discs (Chapter Brake System).
2. The friction linings are dirty or oil-soaked. Replace the pads/shoes.
3. The wrong type of pads is installed. Replace them.

Excessive brake pedal travel

1. There is a partial brake system failure. Check the entire system (Chapter Brake System) and make the necessary repairs.
2. The brake fluid level in the master cylinder is low. Check the level (Chapter Brake System), add fluid as necessary and bleed the system (Chapter Brake System).
3. The rear brakes are out of adjustment. Apply the brakes several times while driving in reverse. If this does not correct the problem, remove the drums and check the condition of the self-adjusting mechanisms (Chapter Brake System).

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

1. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the brakes (Chapter Brake System).
2. The flexible brake hoses are faulty. Check the condition of all hoses and lines of the system. Replace components as necessary.
3. The master cylinder mounting is loose.
4. The master cylinder is faulty (Chapter Brake System).

Excessive pedal effort required to stop the vehicle

1. The brake booster is not operating properly (Chapter Brake System).
2. The brake pads/shoe linings are excessively worn. Check and replace as necessary (Chapter Brake System).
3. One or more caliper or wheel cylinder pistons are seized. Check and make the necessary repairs (Chapter Brake System).
4. The friction linings of the pads/shoes are contaminated with oil, grease or brake fluid. Check and replace as necessary (Chapter Brake System).
5. New pads/shoes have been installed and have not yet bedded in. They require some time to bed in to the discs/drums.

Pedal goes to the floor with minimal resistance

1. The fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir has dropped excessively due to leaks from the wheel cylinder(s) or caliper piston(s), or loose, disconnected or damaged brake lines, etc. Check the entire system and make the necessary repairs.
2. The master cylinder seals are worn (Chapter Brake System).

Brake pedal pulsates during braking

1. The caliper does not move properly due to incorrect installation or an obstruction. Remove and inspect it (Chapter Brake System).
2. The disc or drum is faulty. Remove it (Chapter Brake System) and check for excessive runout, out-of-round and lack of flatness. Machine the disc or drum, or replace it.

Suspension and Steering

Vehicle pulls to one side

1. The tires are unevenly inflated.
2. There is a defect in the tires.
3. The suspension or steering components are excessively worn (Chapter Suspension and Steering).
4. The front wheel alignment requires adjustment.
5. The front brakes are dragging (Chapter Brake System).

Jerking, shaking or vibration

1. The wheels are out of balance or the rims are out-of-round. Have the wheels balanced at a tire shop.
2. The rear wheel bearings are worn, loose or out of adjustment (Chapter Suspension and Steering).
3. The shock absorbers or other suspension components are worn or damaged (Chapter Suspension and Steering).

Excessive body roll or nose dive when cornering or braking

1. The shock absorbers are faulty. Replace them as a set (Chapter Suspension and Steering).
2. The springs and/or other suspension components are broken or weakened. Inspect the components (Chapter Suspension and Steering).

Steering wheel is too stiff

1. The fluid level in the power steering reservoir is excessively low (Chapter Suspension and Steering).
2. The tires are incorrectly inflated.
3. The steering linkage joints are insufficiently lubricated (Chapter Suspension and Steering).
4. The front wheel alignment is out of adjustment.
5. The power steering is not providing the required assistance.

Excessive steering play

1. The front wheel bearings are loose (Chapter Suspension and Steering).
2. The suspension or steering components are excessively worn (Chapter Suspension and Steering).

Power steering does not provide the required assistance

1. The power steering pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is incorrectly adjusted (Chapter Suspension and Steering).
2. The hydraulic fluid level is excessively low (Chapter Suspension and Steering).
3. The hoses or lines of the hydraulic system are restricted. Check and replace as necessary.
4. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the system (Chapter Suspension and Steering).

Excessive tire tread wear (not in one particular area)

1. The tires are incorrectly inflated.
2. The wheels are out of balance. Consult a tire shop.
3. The wheel rims are damaged. Check and replace as necessary.
4. The suspension or steering components are excessively worn (Chapter Suspension and Steering).

Excessive tire tread wear on the outer edge

1. The tires are incorrectly inflated.
2. Corners are taken too sharply. Reduce speed.
3. The front wheel alignment is out of adjustment (excessive toe-in). Have it professionally adjusted at a service station.
4. The suspension arm is bent or twisted (Chapter Suspension and Steering).

Excessive tire tread wear on the inner edge

1. The tires are incorrectly inflated.
2. The front wheel alignment is out of adjustment (toe-out). Have it adjusted at a service station.
3. The steering components are damaged or loose (Chapter Suspension and Steering).

Localized tire tread wear

1. The wheels are out of balance.
2. The wheel rims are damaged or bent. Check and replace as necessary.
3. There is a defect in the tires.