Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
To prevent damage to the cylinder head, wait until the engine coolant temperature drops below normal operating temperature before removing it.
When handling the metal gasket, be careful not to bend the gasket or damage the gasket contact surface.
To avoid damage, carefully disconnect the wiring connectors by holding the connector body.
Label all wires and hoses to avoid incorrect connection.
Turn the crankshaft pulley so that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDC).
Remove the engine assembly from the vehicle. (Refer to Engine and Transaxle Assembly in this group)
Remove the transmission assembly from the engine assembly. (Refer to Manual Transmission System) (Refer to Automatic Transmission)
Manual transmission: Remove the flywheel (A).Automatic transmission: Remove the drive plate (A) and adapter plate (B).
Mount the engine on an engine stand.
Remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold. (Refer to Intake and Exhaust Systems in this group)
Remove the timing chain drive, including the drive belt, cylinder head cover, generator, and timing chain cover. (Refer to Timing System in this group)
Remove the cylinder head assembly. (Refer to Cylinder Head in this group)
Remove the A/C compressor. (Refer to Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning - A/C Compressor).
Remove the water pump assembly. (Refer to Cooling System in this group)
Remove the water inlet pipe and thermostat assembly. (Refer to Cooling System in this group)
Remove the knock sensor (A).
Remove the OPS (Oil Pressure Switch) (B).
Remove the CKPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) (C).
Remove the oil filter. (Refer to Lubrication System in this group)
Remove the oil screen. (Refer to Lubrication System in this group)
Remove the rear oil seal (A).
Remove the oil pan.
Remove the lower oil pan bolts.
Remove the main bearing cap bolts.
Check the connecting rod side clearance.
Check the connecting rod bearing oil clearance.
Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly.
Using a ridge reamer, remove all carbon from the upper part of the cylinder.
Push the piston and connecting rod assembly with the upper bearing through the top of the cylinder block.
Keep the bearings, connecting rod, and cap together.
Arrange the piston and connecting rod assemblies in the correct order.
Check the crankshaft bearing oil clearance.
Check the crankshaft end play.
Lift the crankshaft (A) out of the engine, taking care not to damage the journals.
Arrange the main bearings and thrust bearings in the correct order.
Check the fit between the piston and piston pin. Try to move the piston back and forth on the piston pin. If any movement is felt, replace the piston and pin as a set.
Remove the piston rings.
Using a piston ring expander, remove the 2 compression rings.
Remove the 2 side rails and oil control ring by hand.
Arrange the piston rings in the correct order.
Remove the snap rings, then separate the connecting rod from the piston.
Inspection
Connecting Rod
Check the connecting rod side clearance. Using a feeler gauge, measure the axial play while moving the connecting rod back and forth.
A.
If out of specification, install a new connecting rod.
B.
If still out of specification, replace the crankshaft.
Connecting rod side clearance Standard: 0.10–0.25 mm (0.0039–0.0098 in.)
Check the oil clearance of the connecting rod bearing.
Make sure the alignment marks on the connecting rod and cap are aligned to ensure correct assembly.
Remove the 2 connecting rod cap bolts.
Remove the connecting rod cap and lower bearing.
Clean the connecting rod journal and bearing.
Place a piece of Plastigage on the crankshaft journal.
Install the lower bearing and cap in place and tighten the bolts. Tightening torque: Step 1: 17.7 ~ 22 N·m; Step 2: 88 ~ 92°
Do not rotate the crankshaft.
Remove the connecting rod cap and lower bearing.
Measure the width of the Plastigage at its widest point.
Oil clearance: 0.028 ~ 0.046 mm (0.00110 ~ 0.00181 in.)
If the Plastigage measurement is too wide or too narrow, remove the upper and lower bearings, then install new bearings with the same color code. Recheck the oil clearance.
Do not grind, shim or scrape the bearings or caps to adjust the clearance.
If the Plastigage indicates the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller size bearing. Recheck the oil clearance.
If the proper clearance cannot be obtained with the appropriate larger or smaller size bearings, replace the crankshaft and repeat the inspection procedure.
If the markings are illegible due to dirt and dust buildup, do not scrape them off or use a wire brush. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
Connecting Rod Marking Connecting Rod Specifications
Grade
Mark
Inner Diameter
0
A
48.000 to 48.006 mm (1.88976 to 1.89000 in.)
1
B
48.006 to 48.012 mm (1.89000 to 1.89023 in.)
2
C
48.012 to 48.018 mm (1.89023 to 1.89047 in.)
Crankshaft Pin Identification Mark
Stamp in the order shown by the arrow direction from #1.
Crankshaft Specifications
Grade
Mark
Pin Outside Diameter
I
1
44.966 to 44.972 mm (1.77031 to 1.77055 in.)
II
2
44.960 to 44.966 mm (1.77008 to 1.77031 in.)
III
3
44.954 to 44.960 mm (1.76984 to 1.77008 in.)
Connecting Rod Bearing Marking Connecting Rod Bearing Specifications
Grade
Mark
Bearing Thickness
A
Blue
1.509 ~ 1.512 mm (0.05941 ~ 0.05953 in.)
B
Black
1.506 ~ 1.509 mm (0.05929 ~ 0.05941 in.)
C
None
1.503 ~ 1.506 mm (0.05917 ~ 0.05929 in.)
D
Green
1.500 ~ 1.503 mm (0.05906 ~ 0.05917 in.)
E
Yellow
1.497 ~ 1.500 mm (0.05894 ~ 0.05906 in.)
Select the connecting rod bearing using the selection table. Connecting Rod Bearing Selection Table
Bearing Classification Assembly
Connecting Rod Marking
0 (A)
1 (B)
2(C)
Crankshaft Marking
I (1)
E (Yellow)
D (Green)
C (None)
II (2)
D (Green)
C (None)
B (Black)
III (3)
C (None)
B (Black)
Blue)
Inspect the connecting rods.
When reinstalling, make sure the cylinder numbers marked on the connecting rod and cap match those noted during disassembly. When installing a new connecting rod, make sure the bearing locking tabs are on the same side.
Replace the connecting rod if it is damaged on the rod surface at either end. Also, if the steps are worn or the surface is heavily roughened, the small end inside diameter is visible, and the rod must also be replaced.
Using a connecting rod alignment tool, check the connecting rod for bend and twist. If the measured value is close to the repair limit, correct the rod with a press. Any connecting rod that is severely bent or distorted must be replaced. Connecting rod bend limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.) or less per 100 mm (3.94 in.) Connecting rod twist limit: 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.) or less per 100 mm (3.94 in.)
When installing connecting rods without bearings, there should be no difference in the side surfaces.
Check the crankshaft bearing oil clearance.
To check the oil clearance between the main bearing and journal, remove the lower crankcase and lower bearings.
Clean each main journal and bearing with a clean shop towel.
Place one strip of Plastigage on each main journal.
Install the lower crankcase and lower bearings, then tighten the main bolts. Tightening torque: Step 1: 27.5 ~ 31 N·m N·m; Step 2: 120 ~ 125°
Do not rotate the crankshaft.
Remove the lower crankcase and lower bearings.
Measure the width of the Plastigage at its widest point.
Oil clearance: 0.016 ~ 0.034 mm (0.00063 ~ 0.00134 in.)
If the Plastigage is too wide or too narrow, remove the upper and lower bearings, then install new bearings with the same color code. Recheck the oil clearance.
Do not grind, shim or scrape the bearings or caps to adjust the clearance.
If the Plastigage indicates the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller size bearing. Recheck the oil clearance.
If the proper clearance cannot be obtained using bearings of larger or smaller size, replace the crankshaft and start over.
If the markings are illegible due to dirt and dust buildup, do not scrape them off or use a wire brush. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
Crankshaft Bore Identification MarkLetters are stamped on the block as a size mark for each of the 5 main bearing bores. Use them, together with the numbers or the plate stamped on the crankshaft (main journal size marks), to select the correct bearings. Cylinder Block Specifications
Class
Mark
Inner Diameter
a
A
59.000 ~ 59.006 mm (2.32283 ~ 2.32307 in.)
D
B
59.006 ~ 59.012 mm (2.32307 ~ 2.32330 in.)
c
C
59.012 ~ 59.018 mm (2.32330 ~ 2.32354 in.)
Crankshaft Journal Identification Mark
Stamp in the order shown by the arrow direction from #1.
Crankshaft Specifications
Grade
Mark
Journal Outside Diameter
I
1
54.954 ~ 54.960 mm (2.16354 ~ 2.16378 in.)
II
2
54.948 ~ 54.954 mm (2.16330 ~ 2.16354 in.)
III
3
54.942 ~ 54.948 mm (2.16307 ~ 2.16330 in.)
Crankshaft Bearing Identification Mark Crankshaft Bearing Specifications
Grade
Mark
Bearing Thickness
A
Blue
2.021 ~ 2.024 mm (0.07957 ~ 0.07968 in.)
B
Black
2.018 ~ 2.021 mm (0.07945 ~ 0.07957 in.)
C
None
2.015 ~ 2.018 mm (0.07933 ~ 0.07945 in.)
D
Green
2.012 ~ 2.015 mm (0.07921 ~ 0.07933 in.)
E
Yellow
2.009 ~ 2.012 mm (0.07909 ~ 0.07921 in.)
Select the crankshaft bearing using the selection table. Crankshaft Bearing Selection Table
Bearing Classification Assembly
Crankshaft Bore Identification Mark
A (A)
B (B)
C (C)
Crankshaft Marking
I (1)
E (Yellow)
D (Green)
C (None)
II (2)
D (Green)
C (None)
B (Black)
III (3)
C (None)
B (Black)
Blue)
Check the crankshaft end play. Using a dial indicator, measure the end play by moving the crankshaft back and forth with a screwdriver. If the end play exceeds the maximum, replace the center bearing.
End play Standard: 0.07 ~ 0.25 mm (0.0028 ~ 0.0098 in.)
Inspect the main journals and crankpin journals. Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of each main journal and crankpin journal. Main journal diameter: 54.942 ~ 54.960 mm (2.16307 ~ 2.16378 in.) Crankpin journal diameter: 44.954 ~ 44.972 mm (1.76984 ~ 1.77055 in.)
Remove the gasket material. Using a gasket scraper, remove all gasket material from the cylinder block upper surface.
Clean the Cylinder Block. Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean the cylinder block.
Inspect the cylinder block upper surface for flatness. Using a precision straightedge and feeler gauge, measure the surface contacting the cylinder head gasket for distortion. Cylinder block gasket surface flatness Standard: Overall less than 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.) Less than 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.) for a 100 mm (3.9370 in.) x 100 mm (3.9370 in.) section
Inspect the cylinder bore. Visually check the cylinder for vertical scratches. If deep scratches are found, replace the cylinder block.
Inspect the cylinder bore diameter. Using a cylinder gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter at the positions in the axial and thrust directions.
Calculate the difference between the cylinder bore inside diameter and the piston outside diameter.
Piston-to-cylinder clearance: 0.02 - 0.04 mm (0.0008 - 0.0016 in.)
Check the piston ring side clearance. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between a new piston ring and the ring groove wall. If the clearance is greater than the maximum, replace the piston. Piston ring side clearance [Standard] No. 1 ring: 0.040 ~ 0.080 mm (0.00157 ~ 0.00315 in.) No. 2 ring: 0.040 ~ 0.080 mm (0.00157 ~ 0.00315 in.) Oil ring: 0.023 ~ 0.06 mm (0.0009 ~ 0.00236 in.)
Inspect the piston ring end gap. To measure the piston ring end gap, insert the piston ring into the cylinder bore. Position the ring at a right angle to the cylinder wall, carefully pressing it in with the piston. Measure the gap with a feeler gauge. If the gap exceeds the limit, replace the piston ring. If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore inside diameter. If the bore diameter exceeds the service limit, the cylinder block must be replaced. Piston ring end gap [Standard] No. 1 ring: 0.15 ~ 0.30 mm (0.0059 ~ 0.0118 in.) No. 2 ring: 0.30 ~ 0.45 mm (0.0118 ~ 0.0177 in.) Oil ring: 0.20 ~ 0.50 mm (0.0079 ~ 0.0197 in.)
Measure the clearance between the piston pin and piston. Piston pin-to-piston clearance: 0.004 ~ 0.013 mm (0.00016 ~ 0.00051 in.)
Check the clearance between the piston pin outside diameter and the connecting rod small end inside diameter. Piston pin-to-connecting rod clearance: 0.010 ~ 0.025 mm (0.00039 ~ 0.00098 in.)
Crankshaft, Cylinder Block, Piston and Piston Rings, Piston Pins
Installation
Thoroughly clean all parts to be assembled.
Before installing parts, apply new engine oil to all sliding and rotating surfaces.
Replace all gaskets, O-rings, and oil seals with new parts.
Assemble the piston and connecting rod.
Install the snap ring (A) on one side of the piston pin hole.
Align the piston front mark with the connecting rod front mark.
Insert the piston pin (B) into the piston pin hole and the connecting rod small end hole.
After installing the piston pin, install the snap ring (C) on the other side.
Apply a sufficient amount of engine oil to the piston outer surface, the piston pin hole inner surface, and the connecting rod small end hole before installing the piston pin.
Be careful not to damage or scratch the connecting rod small end hole, piston pin hole, and piston pin when installing the piston pin.
Install the snap ring securely so that it contacts the entire piston pin hole groove.
Install the piston rings.
Install the oil control ring spacer and 2 side rails by hand.
Using a piston ring expander, install the 2 compression rings with the factory mark facing up.
Position the piston rings so that the ring gaps are as shown in the illustration. (No. 1 ring should be on the opposite side from the No. 2 ring.) Example)
Make sure the oil control ring rotates smoothly.
Install the connecting rod bearings.
Align the bearing tang with the groove in the connecting rod or connecting rod cap.
Install the bearings (A) into the connecting rod and the connecting rod cap (B).
Be careful not to change the position of the bearing caps.
Install the crankshaft main bearings.
The upper bearings have an oil groove and oil holes; the lower bearings do not.
Align the bearing tab with the groove in the cylinder block, then insert the 5 upper bearings (A).
Align the bearing tab with the groove in the lower crankcase (B), then insert the 5 lower bearings (A).
Install the thrust bearings. Install the 2 thrust bearings (A) on both sides of the No. 3 cylinder block journal with the oil groove facing outward.
Install the crankshaft (A) on the cylinder block.
Apply liquid sealant to the upper surface of the lower crankcase.
Using a gasket scraper, remove all old sealant from the gasket surfaces.
The sealant application areas on the lower crankcase and cylinder block must be free of harmful foreign material, oil, dust and moisture. Spray cleaner on the surface and wipe with a clean cloth.
Install a new rubber gasket (A) on the upper part of the lower crankcase.
Apply liquid sealant to the lower part of the cylinder block. A continuous bead of sealant must be applied to prevent any oil leakage path. Bead width: 2.5 ~ 3.5 mm (0.10 ~ 0.14 in.) Sealant: Threebond 1217H or equivalent
Assemble the lower crankcase within 5 minutes after applying the sealant.
Do not start the engine or perform a leak test within 30 minutes after assembling the lower crankcase.
Remove excess sealant from the sealant application surfaces of the next process before it hardens.
If sealant is applied to the upper surface of the lower crankcase, it must be in the same position as the cylinder block.
To prevent oil leakage, apply sealant to the internal threads of the bolt holes.
Install the lower crankcase on the cylinder block.
Install the main bearing cap bolts.Using SST (09221-4A000), install and tighten the 10 main bearing cap bolts in several passes in the specified sequence. Tightening torque: Step 1: 27.5 ~ 31 N·m N·m; Step 2: 120 ~ 125°
Do not reuse the bearing cap bolts.
Do not apply engine oil to the bolt threads to achieve the correct tightening torque.
The main bearing cap bolts are tightened in two steps.
If any bearing cap bolt is broken or deformed, replace it.
Assemble the main bearing cap bolts in the correct order.
Install the lower crankcase bolts in several passes in the sequence shown in the illustration.
Tightening Torque: 18.6 ~ 24 N·m
Make sure the crankshaft rotates smoothly.
Check the crankshaft end play.
Install the piston and connecting rod assembly.
Before installing the piston, apply a coat of engine oil to the ring grooves and cylinder bores.
Install the piston and connecting rod assembly so that the front marks face the front of the engine.
Install the ring compressor, make sure the rings are securely in place, then insert the piston into the cylinder and tap it in with a wooden hammer handle.
Stop after the ring compressor is released, and check the alignment of the connecting rod with the crankshaft journal before inserting the piston into place.
Apply engine oil to the bolt threads. Install the connecting rod caps with bearings and tighten the bolts. Tightening torque: Step 1: 17.7 ~ 22 N·m; Step 2: 88 ~ 92°
Do not reuse the connecting rod cap bolts.
Using SST (09221-4A000), tighten the bolts.
Apply downward pressure on the ring compressor to prevent the rings from expanding before they enter the cylinder bore.
Check the connecting rod side clearance.
Install a new rear oil seal.
Apply engine oil to the lip of the new oil seal.
Using SST (09231-H1100, 09214-2E000) and a hammer, drive in the oil seal (A) until the rear oil seal surface is flush with the rear face of the cylinder block assembly.
Install the oil screen. (Refer to Lubrication System in this group)
Install the oil filter. (Refer to Lubrication System in this group)
Install the CKPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) (C).
Tightening torque: 9.8 ~ 11.8 N·m
Install the OPS (Oil Pressure Sensor) (B).
Tightening torque: 9.8 ~ 11.8 N·m
Install the knock sensor (A).
Tightening Torque: 18.6 ~ 24 N·m
Install the water inlet pipe and thermostat assembly. (Refer to Cooling System in this group)
Install the water pump assembly. (Refer to Cooling System in this group)
Install the A/C compressor. (Refer to Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning - A/C Compressor)
Install the cylinder head assembly. (Refer to Cylinder Head in this group)
Install the timing chain, including the drive belt, cylinder head cover, generator and timing chain cover. (Refer to Timing System in this group)
Install the intake manifold and exhaust manifold. (Refer to Intake and Exhaust System in this group)
Remove the engine from the engine assembly stand.
Manual transaxle: Install the flywheel (A).Automatic transaxle: Install the drive plate (A) and adapter plate (B).
Tightening torque: 117.7 to 128 N·m
Do not reuse the bolts.
Assemble the transaxle to the engine. (Refer to Manual Transaxle System) (Refer to Automatic Transaxle)
Install the engine and transaxle assembly to the vehicle. (Refer to Engine and Transaxle Assembly in this group)
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Test yourself
A quick Hyundai Tucson LM quiz: every answer comes with an explanation and a link to the manual page.
