Engine Electrical System
Starter Repair Procedures
In this manual: Engine Electrical System
40steps
~240min
4/5difficulty
Done 0 of 40
Removal
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the battery tray. (Refer to Engine Electrical System - "Battery")
- Remove the air duct and air cleaner assembly. (Refer to Engine Mechanical System - "Air Cleaner")
- Disconnect the starter cable (B) from the solenoid B terminal, then disconnect the connector from the S terminal (A).

- Remove the 2 bolts securing the starter, then remove the starter (A).

Installation
- Install in the reverse order of removal. Starter mounting bolt: 49.0 ~ 64 N·m
Disassembly
- Disconnect the M terminal (A) on the magnetic switch assembly.

- Loosen the 2 screws (A), then disconnect the magnetic switch assembly (B).

- Loosen the brush holder mounting screw (A) and the through bolts (B).

- Remove the rear bracket (A) and the brush holder assembly (B).

- Remove the yoke (A).

- Remove the packing (A), lever plate (B), lever (C), and armature (D).

- Press the stopper (A) using a socket (B).

- After removing the snap ring (A) using pliers (B).

- Remove the snap ring (B), stopper (A), overrunning clutch (C) and armature (D).


Installation
- Assemble in the reverse order of disassembly.
Inspection
Starter Solenoid Inspection
- Disconnect the lead wire from the M terminal of the magnetic switch.
- Connect the battery as shown in the illustration. If the starter pinion gear moves out, it is in good condition.

- To prevent damage to the starter, do not keep the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.

- Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion gear does not retract, the hold-in coil is operating correctly.

- To prevent damage to the starter, do not keep the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.

- Also disconnect the battery from the housing. If the pinion gear retracts immediately, it is operating correctly.

- To prevent damage to the starter, do not keep the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.

No-Load Test
- Place the starter in a vise with soft jaws and connect a fully charged 12-volt battery to the starter as follows.
- Connect a test ammeter (150 A scale) and carbon pile rheostat as shown in the illustration.
- Connect a voltmeter (15-volt scale) to the starter.

- Turn the carbon pile to the OFF position.
- Connect the battery cable from the negative battery terminal to the starter housing.
- Adjust until the battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11 volts.
- Make sure the maximum current is within specification and that the starter rotates smoothly and freely.
Items Current (Max.) Speed (Min.) ISG Type 95 A 3400 rpm Non-ISG Type 95 A 2500 rpm
Armature
- Remove the starter motor.
- Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure.
- Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If wear or damage is found, replace the armature.

- Inspect the commutator surface (A). If the surface is dirty or burnt, grind it with sandpaper or on a lathe within specification, or polish with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).

- Measure the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator diameter Standard (new): 29.4 mm (1.1575 in.) Service limit: 28.8 mm (1.1339 in.)

- Measure the commutator runout (A).
A. If the commutator runout is within the limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments.
Commutator runout Standard (new): 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.) max. Service limit: 0.10 mm (0.0039 in.) max.B. If the commutator runout exceeds the service limit, replace the armature. 
- Check the commutator mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw to the correct depth. Remove all mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut must not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). Commutator mica depth Standard (new): 0.5 mm (0.0197 in.) Limit: 0.2 mm (0.0079 in.)

- Check the continuity between the commutator segments. If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature.

- Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature.

Starter Brush
- Replace brushes that are worn or contaminated with oil. Brush length Standard: 12.3 mm (0.4843 in.) Service limit: 5.5 mm (0.2165 in.)


- To seat new brushes, place a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and rotate the armature smoothly. The brush contact surface will be ground to the same contour as the commutator.
Starter Brush Holder
- Make sure there is no continuity between the (+) brush holder (A) and the (-) plate (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.

Overrunning Clutch
- Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
- Rotate the overrunning clutch in both directions. It should lock in one direction and rotate smoothly in the other. If it locks in neither direction or locks in both directions, replace it.

- If the starter pinion gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly (the pinion gear is not sold separately). If the starter pinion teeth are damaged, check the condition of the flywheel ring gear or torque converter.
Cleaning
- Do not immerse parts in cleaning solvent. Immersing the yoke and/or armature assembly may damage the insulation. Wipe these parts with a cloth only.
- Do not immerse the drive in cleaning solvent. The overrunning clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory, and solvent will wash the lubricant out of the clutch.
- The drive may be cleaned with a brush moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a cloth.
Test yourself
A quick Hyundai Sonata LF quiz: every answer comes with an explanation and a link to the manual page.
Was this page helpful?