Hyundai Genesis DH Quiz
Engine Mechanical System

Crankshaft Repair Procedures

In this manual: Engine Mechanical System
General Information — 9Engine Mechanical System — 103Engine Electrical System — 54Emission Control System — 23Engine Control System/Fuel System — 127Automatic Transmission System (SBC) — 90All-Wheel Drive (AWD) System — 20Drive Shaft and Axle — 27Suspension System — 41Steering — 19Restraints — 56Brake System — 56Body (Interior and Exterior) — 211Body Electrical System — 279Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning — 55
36steps
~221min
5/5difficulty
1special tools
0204060801004936N·mlb·ft
Tightening torque found on this page
Done 0 of 36

Disassembly
  • Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
  • To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait until the engine coolant temperature drops below normal temperature (20 °C [68°F]) before removing it.
  • When handling the metal gasket, be careful not to bend the gasket or damage the gasket contact surface.
  • To avoid damage, carefully disconnect the wiring connectors by holding the connector body.
  • Label all wires and hoses to avoid incorrect connection.
  • Inspect the timing chain before removing the cylinder head.
  • Turn the crankshaft pulley so that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center.
  1. Remove the engine assembly from the vehicle. (Refer to Engine and Transaxle Assembly - "Engine and Transaxle Assembly")
  2. Remove the drive plate and adapter plate. (Refer to Cylinder Block - "Drive Plate")
  3. Mount the engine on an engine stand for disassembly.
  4. Remove the exhaust manifold. (Refer to Intake and Exhaust System - "Exhaust Manifold")
  5. Remove the intake manifold. (Refer to Intake and Exhaust Systems — Intake Manifold)
  6. Remove the timing chain. (Refer to Valve Timing System - Timing Chain)
  7. Remove the water temperature control unit. (Refer to Cooling System - "Water Temperature Control Assembly")
  8. Remove the cylinder head. (Refer to Cylinder Head Assembly - "Cylinder Head")
  9. Remove the oil pump. (Refer to Lubrication System - "Oil Pump")
  10. Remove the water jacket spacer. (Refer to Cylinder Block - "Water Jacket Spacer")
  11. Remove the upper oil pan. (Refer to Lubrication System - "Oil Pan")
  12. Remove the baffle (A).
  13. Remove the rear oil seal retainer (A).
  14. Check the connecting rod side clearance (Refer to Cylinder Block - Piston and Connecting Rod)
  15. Check the oil clearance of the connecting rod bearing cap. (Refer to Cylinder Block - Piston and Connecting Rod)
  16. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly. (Refer to Cylinder Block - Piston and Connecting Rod)
  17. Remove the crankshaft main bearing caps and check the oil clearance.
  18. Check the crankshaft end play.
  19. Remove the crankshaft. Lift the crankshaft (A) out of the engine, taking care not to damage the journals.
    Arrange the main bearings and thrust bearings in the correct order.

Inspection

  1. Check the crankshaft bearing oil clearance.
    1. To check the oil clearance between the main bearing and journal, remove the main bearing caps and bearing halves.
    2. Clean each main journal and bearing half with a clean cloth.
    3. Place a piece of Plastigage along the axial direction of each main journal.
    4. Install the bearings and caps in place, then tighten the bolts. Tightening torque No. 1~8: 49 N·m + 90° No. 9~16: 19.6 N·m + 120° No. 17~24: 29.4 ~ 31 N·m
      • Always use new crankshaft main bearing cap bolts. Crankshaft main bearing cap bolts are torque-to-yield bolts designed to stretch permanently beyond the elastic range when tightened. Therefore, if the bolts are removed and reused, they may break or fail to maintain clamping force.
      • Do not rotate the crankshaft.
    5. Remove the cap and bearing again and measure the widest part of the Plastigage.

      Standard oil clearance: 0.024 ~ 0.042 mm (0.00094 ~ 0.0017 in.)

    6. If the Plastigage measurement is too wide or too narrow, remove the upper bearing half, install a new bearing assembly with the same color mark (select the color as shown in the following column), and recheck the clearance.
      Do not grind, shim or scrape the bearings or caps to adjust the clearance.
    7. If the Plastigage shows that the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (refer to the crankshaft bearing selection table) and recheck the clearance.
      If the proper clearance cannot be obtained using bearings of larger or smaller size, replace the crankshaft and start over.
      If the markings are illegible due to dirt and dust buildup, do not scrape them off or use a wire brush. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
      Crankshaft Bore Mark Location: Letters are stamped on the block as size marks for each of the 4 main journal bores. To select the correct bearings, check the size marks on both the bore and the outer diameter of the journal, stamped on the block and crankshaft respectively.
      Cylinder Block Identification
      Grade Mark Inner Diameter
      a A 73.500 ~ 73.506 mm
      (2.8937 ~ 2.8939 in.)
      D B 73.506 ~ 73.512 mm
      (2.8939 ~ 2.8942 in.)
      c C 73.512 ~ 73.518 mm
      (2.8942 ~ 2.8944 in.)

      Crankshaft Journal Mark Location: Crankshaft Identification
      Crankshaft Identification
      Grade Mark Journal Outside Diameter
      I 1 or A 68.954 ~ 68.960 mm
      (2.7147 ~ 2.7150 in.)
      II 2 or B 68.948 ~ 68.954 mm
      (2.7145 ~ 2.7147 in.)
      III 3 or C 68.942 ~ 68.948 mm
      (2.7142 ~ 2.7145 in.)

      Identification Mark Location (Crankshaft Bearing)
      Crankshaft Identification
      Grade Mark Bearing Thickness
      E BLUE 2.276 ~ 2.279 mm
      (0.0896 ~ 0.0897 in.)
      D BLACK 2.273 ~ 2.276 mm
      (0.0895 ~ 0.0896 in.)
      C RED 2.270 ~ 2.273 mm
      (0.0894 ~ 0.0895 in.)
      B GREEN 2.267 ~ 2.270 mm
      (0.0893 ~ 0.0894 in.)
      A YELLOW 2.264 ~ 2.267 mm
      (0.0891 ~ 0.0893 in.)

      Selection
      ? Crankshaft Bore Identification Mark
      a (A) b (B) c (C)
      Crankshaft Marking 1 or A A
      (YELLOW)      		 B
      (GREEN)      		 C
      (RED)
      2 or B B
      (GREEN)      		 C
      (RED)      		 D
      (BLACK)
      3 or C C
      (RED)      		 D
      (BLACK)      		 E
      (BLUE)
  2. Check the crankshaft thrust clearance. Using a dial indicator, measure the axial clearance by moving the crankshaft back and forth with a screwdriver.

    Standard clearance: 0.10 ~ 0.28 mm (0.0039 ~ 0.0110 in.)

    If the thrust clearance exceeds the maximum limit, replace the thrust bearings as a set.

    Thrust bearing thickness: 2.41 ~ 2.45 mm (0.0949 ~ 0.0964 in.)

  3. Inspect the main journals and connecting rod journals. Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of each main journal and connecting rod journal. Main journal diameter: 68.942 ~ 68.960 mm (2.7142 ~ 2.7149 in.) Connecting rod journal diameter: 54.954 ~ 54.972 mm (2.1635 ~ 2.1642 in.)

Installation
  • Thoroughly clean all parts to be assembled.
  • Before installing parts, apply new engine oil to all sliding and rotating surfaces.
  • Replace all gaskets, O-rings and oil seals with new ones.
  1. Install the main bearings.
    The upper bearings have an oil groove and oil holes; the lower bearings do not.
    1. Align the bearing tab with the tab groove in the cylinder block, then insert the 4 upper bearings (A).
    2. Align the bearing tab with the tab groove of the main bearing cap and install the 4 lower bearings.
  2. Install the thrust bearings. Install the 2 thrust bearings (A) on both sides of journal No. 3 of the cylinder block so that the oil grooves face outward.
  3. Install the crankshaft (A) on the cylinder block.
  4. Install the main bearing caps on the cylinder block.
  5. Install the main bearing cap bolts.
    1. Install and evenly tighten the main bearing cap bolts. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps, following the sequence shown below. Main bearing cap bolt torque: No. 1 to 8: 49 N·m + 90°; No. 9 to 16: 19.6 N·m + 120°; No. 17 to 24: 29.4 to 31 N·m
      • Always use new crankshaft main bearing cap bolts. Crankshaft main bearing cap bolts are torque-to-yield bolts designed to stretch permanently beyond the elastic range when tightened. Therefore, if the bolts are removed and reused, they may break or fail to maintain clamping force.
      • If any bearing cap bolt is broken or deformed, replace it.
      Using SST (09221-4A000), install the main bearing cap bolts.
    2. Make sure the crankshaft rotates smoothly.
  6. Check the crankshaft end play.
  7. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly. (Refer to Cylinder Block - Piston and Connecting Rod)
  8. Install the connecting rod caps and check the oil clearance. (Refer to Cylinder Block - Piston and Connecting Rod)
  9. Check the connecting rod side clearance. (Refer to Cylinder Block - Piston and Connecting Rod)
  10. Install the rear oil seal retainer (A).

    Tightening torque: 9.8 ~ 11.8 N·m
    • Clean the sealing surfaces before assembling the two parts.
    • Remove harmful foreign material from the sealing surface before applying sealant.
    • Before assembling the rear oil seal retainer, apply liquid sealant THREE BOND 1217H to the rear oil seal retainer.
    • Complete the assembly within 5 minutes after applying the sealant.
    • Apply sealant to the internal threads of the bolt holes.
  11. Install the rear oil seal. (Refer to Cylinder Block - Rear Oil Seal)
  12. Install the baffle plate. When installing the baffle plate bolts, tighten the bolts in two or three steps in the sequence shown below.

    Tightening torque: 9.8 ~ 11.8 N·m

  13. Install the upper oil pan. (Refer to Lubrication System - Oil Pan)
  14. Assemble the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.
If replacing the crankshaft with a new one, select the correct connecting rod bearing according to the mark on the crankpin journal of the crankshaft.
  • Connecting Rod Bearing Selection (Refer to Cylinder Block - Piston and Connecting Rod)

Test yourself

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