Body Repair

Repair of Minor Body Panel Damage

Repairing Minor Scratches

If the scratch is superficial and does not penetrate the metal of the panel, repair is extremely simple.

PROCEDURE

1. To remove loose paint and wax coating, lightly rub the scratched area with fine rubbing compound. Rinse the treated surface with clean water.
2. Using a small brush, fill the scratch with paint of the same type used for the finish coat of the surrounding body panels. Continue applying paint layer by layer until the paint surface inside the scratch is level with the surrounding panel surface. Allow the new paint to cure for at least two weeks, then sand the transition area flush with the rest of the panel using very fine rubbing compound. Finally, apply wax to the treated surface.
3. If the scratch has penetrated the paint, reached the metal of the panel and caused corrosion, use a different repair procedure. Using a penknife, scrape powdered rust out of the scratch, then treat the surface with inhibitor primer to prevent future corrosion. Using a rubber or nylon applicator, apply glazing-type body filler over the treated damaged area.
4. If necessary, especially when filling narrow scratches, the filler may be thinned with solvent to form a very fine paste. Before the glazing filler hardens inside the scratch, wrap the tip of your finger in a smooth cotton cloth. Then, dampen the finger with solvent and quickly draw it along the filled scratch. This will leave the surface slightly concave. After the filler has hardened, the treated scratch can be painted in accordance with the instructions in step 2.

Repair of Dents

When repairing dents, the primary task is to pull the deformed surface back to the original contour. Do not attempt to restore the surface to 100% of its original shape; this is impossible because the internal structure of the panel metal is disturbed by the impact.

The optimum level for a dent is approximately 3 mm below the surface of the surrounding undamaged body panel. If the dent is very shallow, pulling it is not necessary.

If the concave area can be reached from the back of the panel, attempt to straighten the dent from the inside by tapping with a soft-faced hammer.

PROCEDURE

1. When tapping out the dent, hold a wooden dolly firmly against the front face of the dent to absorb the impact energy and prevent excessive stretching of the deformed panel metal.
2. If the dent is located on a double-layer section of the panel, or if access to the back is not possible for any other reason, use an alternative pulling method. Drill several small holes in the concave area, positioning them in the deepest parts of the dent. Then screw long self-tapping screws into the holes, leaving the heads protruding far enough to grip with pliers. Begin pulling the dent outward using the pliers on the screws.
3. In the next stage, remove paint from the damaged area and from an area approximately 3 cm wide around it. This work is best done with a wire wheel or sanding disc fitted to an electric drill; however, hand sanding with abrasive paper is equally effective.
4. The final step before filling is to scratch the bare metal of the dent with a screwdriver or file tip, or to drill small holes in it, to ensure maximum adhesion of the filler to the metal surface. Then proceed with filling and painting (see below).

Repair of Rusted Holes and Perforations

PROCEDURE

1. Using a sanding disc or wire wheel fitted to an electric drill, remove all paint from the damaged area and from an area approximately 3 cm wide around it. If an electric drill is not available, the work can be done just as effectively by hand with abrasive paper.
2. After removing the paint, assess the extent of metal corrosion damage and determine whether repair is practical or whether it is more sensible to replace the panel completely (if this is possible). New panels can be purchased for far less than many vehicle owners expect. In many cases, installing a new panel is faster and more economical than repairing extensive body damage.
3. Remove all trim from the damaged panel, except for components that may serve as reference points for recreating the original shape of the deformed areas (such as headlight bezels, etc.). Using metal snips or a hacksaw blade, cut away all loose, weakly attached, and irreparably corroded pieces of metal, then bend the edges of the opening inward with a hammer to form a recess for holding the filler material.
4. Using a wire brush, remove powdered rust from the damaged metal. If the back of the damaged area is accessible, treat it with corrosion inhibitor.
5. Before filling, the opening must be blocked. This can be done by riveting or screwing a piece of sheet metal to the back of the damaged area, or by covering the opening with wire mesh.
6. After the opening is blocked, the damaged area can be filled and painted (refer to the next subsection).

Filling and Painting

Many types of body fillers are available; however, for this type of work, the filler paste supplied with body panel repair kits, with the hardener packed in a separate tube, is best suited. To achieve a smooth and accurate contour of the filled surface, the paste must be applied with a flexible plastic or nylon applicator.

PROCEDURE

1. Strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions (failure to do so may cause the filler to harden incorrectly). Mix a small amount of filler on a clean wooden or cardboard surface (handle the hardener carefully).
2. Using the applicator, apply the filler to the properly prepared (see above) damaged area of the body panel. To achieve the desired contour and filler level, each stroke of the applicator must pass across the entire repair area. As soon as the contour of the filled surface is close to the original, stop applying filler immediately, since it will begin to stick to the applicator as it hardens, forming lumps and leaving scratches on the surface. Continue applying layers of paste at intervals of about 20 minutes until the filled surface is slightly raised above the surrounding panel metal.
3. After the filler has hardened, excess material can be removed with a file. Next, begin sanding and smoothing the filled surface. Waterproof abrasive paper of imported manufacture is best for this purpose, as it has uniform grit and good adhesion of the abrasive to the backing. Start with coarse No. 180 paper and gradually reduce the grit, finishing with No. 600. To achieve proper flatness of the surface, wrap the paper around or adhere it to a firm rubber, wooden, or foam block. Keep the paper regularly and frequently wet with water during sanding. This procedure ensures absolute smoothness and evenness of the surface at the final stage.
4. At this stage, the repaired area should be surrounded by a ring of clean bare metal, ending in a gradually tapering edge of sound paint. Rinse the treated surface with clean water to wash away all abrasive residue formed during sanding.
5. Spray a thin coat of light-colored primer onto the treated surface from an aerosol can. This will reveal any defects left after sanding, which can be corrected by covering them with a fresh layer of filler. Repeat the sanding and smoothing step. Alternate filling, sanding, and priming until a satisfactory result is achieved. When finished, rinse the treated surface with water and allow it to dry.
6. The surface is now ready for painting. Aerosol painting of the vehicle must be performed in still, dry, warm, and dust-free air. Conditions best meet these requirements in a large, enclosed, heated space. If circumstances require painting outdoors, carefully select suitable weather conditions. When working indoors, reduce dust by wetting the floor with water. If only a single body panel is being painted, mask the adjacent undamaged panels. This precaution will minimize the effect of slight color differences between the old and new paint. Trim elements such as chrome decorative strips, door handles, and similar items should also be masked (or preferably removed). To protect surfaces that are not to be painted, use masking tape and old newspapers, applied in several layers.
7. Before using the aerosol, shake the can thoroughly, then spray a test surface to practice spraying technique. Apply a heavy coat of primer to the surface to be painted. The required thickness is achieved by applying several thin coats of primer. Using No. 600 waterproof abrasive paper and plenty of water, sand the primed surface until it is perfectly smooth. Before applying the final paint, allow the primer to dry completely.
8. Apply a layer of color coat, again building up thickness through several coats. Begin painting at the center of the repair area, moving the aerosol can in circular motions and gradually widening the spiral until the entire damaged area is covered, plus a ring of sound surrounding paint approximately 5 cm wide. Remove the newspapers and masking tape protecting the surrounding body panels 10–15 minutes after applying the last coat of paint (no later, to avoid damaging the edge of the fresh paint as it begins to set). The paint fully cures in approximately two weeks; after that, to blend the fresh paint, polish the repaired surface with very fine rubbing compound. Finally, apply a layer of wax to the panel.

Repair of Major Body Damage

Major body damage repair must be carried out at a specialized body shop equipped with the necessary equipment.

In the case of extensive body damage, first check whether any panel components have shifted in a way that could affect vehicle handling or cause accelerated wear of any vehicle components.

Since most body components (hood, fenders, etc.) are separate parts that can be replaced individually, replacing them after severe damage is generally not advisable. It is usually much more practical and economical to find a suitable replacement part, which can be obtained not only from auto parts stores but also from salvage yards, significantly reducing costs.

Body Gaps

When installing body components, the specified gaps (the width of the joints between the panel and adjacent body components) must be maintained. Otherwise, friction may occur, for example, a door rubbing against the body when closing, accompanied by an unpleasant noise, or unwanted noise may develop while driving. The gap must be of constant width along the contact edges of the parts. Deviation must not exceed 1 mm.

The following requirement is mandatory: the surfaces of adjoining components must be parallel. Offset of up to 1 mm inward is permissible for components located toward the rear of the vehicle relative to components located toward the front. For example, the front edge of the rear door may sit 1 mm deeper than the rear edge of the front door.

Gap dimensions permitted for your vehicle are listed in the Specifications.